(AFP) – Jun 26, 2008

MILAN (AFP) — Italian fashion house Etro sent chic outdoorsmen down the catwalks in flamboyant silk creations while Marni offered geometrical silhouettes at the spring/summer 2009 shows in Milan this week.

The Canadian duo DSquared, perhaps anticipating a major push by Italian Vogue against racism in the fashion world in its July issue, used a majority of black models to show their in-your-face creations.

Using break-dancing moves, the army of rappers, accessorised with baseball caps or shining gold chains, seemed straight out of the movie "Shaft."

One caused a stir with the skimpiest possible black swimsuit below a gold microphone dangling between rippling pecs.

Kean Etro, son of the house's founder, set his show deep in the Indonesian forest, offering silk prints with paisley motifs or brilliant solids in bronze, orange, fushia, mustard and amber.

The models, two of whom were well into their sixties, completed their outfits with large smiles under their panama hats, another rarity on the catwalks.

Where DSquared scrimped, Marni cut wide, with shirts that fell from the shoulders to drape the body, the long sleeves starting low.

Straight-legged pants provided contrast, ending above the ankle.

In discreet shades of grey, lilac and charcoal, contrasting here and there with tartan or tweed motifs, Marni's Consuelo Catsiglioni offered an unusually geometrical silhouette for men.

D&G of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana went nautical with their blue-and-white striped bathing suits and bermudas over flip-flops.

As for Giorgio Armani, next summer's pants will be long and flowing and bermudas will have a Saharan look, narrowing at the knee. The eclectic collection proposes a scarf used as a belt, shirts with Mao collars and suit jackets closed with a single button over a bare torso.

Checkered shorts and tops successfully teamed with solids or pinstripes gave Moschino's collection a jaunty air, completed by a picnic basket or a straw hat.

Going tropical, Gucci's Frida Giannini evoked exotic birds with her turquoises, lapis lazuli and emerald creations mixing floral patterns with stripes.

Parrots and pink flamingoes adorned everything from ties to shoes, while a black and white python-print jacket was emblazoned with brilliant flowers.

British designer John Richmond brought out his usual bad boys, but they were a lot less punk than usual.

A shantung silk suit has a gold braid down the leg, a sober suit is paired with an apple green tie, or a classic shirt has tattoo designs on the backs of the sleeves.

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