BANGKOK (AFP) — Bangkok's murky Chao Phraya river will be awash with colour and song Monday as the glittering Royal Barges make a rare appearance to launch month-long celebrations for King Bhumibol Adulyadej's 80th birthday.
Fifty-two longtail boats manned by 2,200 oarsmen, guardsmen, drummers and singers resplendent in brightly coloured tunics will sail in formation through the heart of the Thai capital, on their way to Wat Arun, the temple of dawn.
Traditionally, the Thai king takes his place on the century-old royal barge Suphannahongse, or "Golden Swan", to deliver robes to monks in a ceremony marking the end of Buddhist Lent.
But government officials said that the deeply-revered monarch will not be attending the outing of the Royal Barges, and had assigned the crown prince to go in his place.
Celebrations for the king's birthday on December 5 come amid worries for the king's health. He is currently in a Bangkok hospital after falling ill with irregular blood flow in the brain in mid-October.
King Bhumibol, the world's longest-reigning monarch, is treated with an almost religious devotion in Thailand, where his picture hangs on every corner and insulting the royal family is punishable by a decade in prison.
A constitutional monarch with few legal powers, the king has however been a steadying presence through six decades of political turmoil.
The Royal Household Bureau has said that the king is regaining strength each day -- news welcomed along the banks of the Chao Phraya river as participants readied for Monday's procession.
"Everybody wants the Thai king to be better and stronger for the event," said Prachum Eamsa-ard, a guardsman on the Golden Swan.
"This is an ancient tradition showing our culture," he added.
Since King Bhumibol ascended to the throne on June 9, 1946, the boats have plied the river only 15 times -- most recently in June 2006 during celebrations marking 60 years since the monarch's accession.
Normally the intricately ornamented barges, their prows decorated with garudas, nagas and other mystical creatures from Buddhist and Hindu mythology, are kept in a museum.
But on days of national importance, navy oarsman in sarongs, red tunics and traditional hats propel 52 boats through the water to the banging of drums, as perfectly co-ordinated golden paddles break the waters.
Only four of the barges are actually deemed "royal", while the others are officially royal escort vessels.
The Golden Swan takes pride of place. Made from a single piece of wood, it is the largest dug-out in the world at nearly 50 metres (164 feet) long, with a huge swan carved into its bow.
The barge procession dates back to Thailand's 1350-1767 Ayutthaya period. When Bangkok was built more than 250 years ago, kings used the boats travel through the capital's network of canals.
As Thailand modernised the barges fell out of use, but King Bhumibol revived the tradition in 1957 to celebrate the 25th century of the Buddhist era.
"I'm very happy to do this for the king and I'm very proud for my family," said Nattawat Aramklaua, who will shout out songs from the barge, dressed in a blinding gold-and-fuchsia robe and shining patent leather shoes.
Paul Handley, author of a biography called "The King Never Smiles", which is banned here, said Thais would likely be unfazed by the monarch's absence at the barge ceremony.
But people will keep a close eye on his well-being, especially as Thailand holds a crucial general election in December, aimed at returning democracy after a coup last year.
"If he does not manage even a short appearance and a few words for his birthday -- which is in effect Thailand's national day -- that will make people very nervous," he told AFP by email.
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