Thousands fete new Beaujolais Nouveau despite sales fears
BEAUJEU, France (AFP) — A nearly 10,000-strong global crowd Thursday feted the launch of the 2007 vintage Beaujolais Nouveau, a light young French wine which has become a world brand since its introduction in 1970.
The uncorking ceremony held at the stroke of midnight in the small French town of Beaujeu -- the self-proclaimed "historic capital" of Beaujolais wine -- was attended by aficionados from Japan, South Korea, Britain and China.
"Ladies and gentleman, senoras y senores, mesdames et messieurs, we are inaugurating this evening the wine which will be served up to drink around the world," the master of ceremonies announced with a flourish.
"Ten, nine, eight ... three, two, one Beaujeu! The Beaujolais Nouveau is here," he announced, theatrically striking the mallet on wine casks in a colourful ceremony broadcast live by Japan's NHK television station.
Despite stray criticism that the just harvested red wine is overrated, Beaujolais Nouveau has enjoyed a spectacular success in countries such as Japan which has become its largest importer.
Sales in Japan reached 11 million bottles last year, down however from a peak of 12.5 million bottles in 2004.
Global sales peaked at 62 million bottles in 1998, making Beaujolais Nouveau one of France's bestselling wines ever but they are expected to be hit this year by slackening demand in Japan, a strong euro and hiking petrol prices.
This year exports are expected to fall by a further 20 percent, to 8.4 million bottles, according to Asahi Breweries Ltd, one of the Japanese importers of the wine.
But such concerns failed to worry many attending the colourful midnight ceremony, that was preceded by a procession of wheelbarrows bearing burning dead vine shoots and followed by a dance.
"It's fantastic, the atmosphere is extraordinary, it's very warm," gushed Tippi Unge from Sweden.
"In China, I already knew the Beaujolais Nouveau," exchange student Baz Fan said, adding: "At this moment, bars are already holding ceremonies to 'free' the wine."
Yoojin, a South Korean, student was similarly effusive.
"It's a very famous wine in South Korea but it's very expensive but here one can go to town," she said.
This year's wine is described as light with raspberry notes by Damien Gateau, a sommelier from Lyon, the capital of the Beaujolais region. And, for the first time ever, a rose version will be available in limited quantities.
The idea, said Inter-Beaujolais, the region's official wine body, is the result of increased demand in both Japan and France for pink wine.
Made from the same grape, gamay, as its red counterpart, some 400,000 bottles of Beaujolais rose went on sale Thursday - a fraction however of the red Beaujolais Nouveau sales which last year stood at 50 million bottles.
National French food and drinks exports body Sopexa says however that predictions of a 20 per cent fall in sales may be overly pessimistic.
"We have been waiting for a drop for two years but it hasn't happened yet," said Sopexa director in Japan, Jean-Charles Crouin, adding that 2004 was an exceptional year there due to a spike in demand after a shortage in 2003.
Retired Briton Suzie Cook meanwhile gave this year's vintage her thumbs up.
"It's better than year than last year, it's sweeter," said Suzie Cook.
Benjamin Senechal, a student from Lyon, said that although the brand did not "figure among the great wines, it makes for great parties."
He expressed surprise at the eclectic turnout, saying: "One meets Russians, Koreans, Germans, Japanese ... it's mind-blowing in a village like this."
